Hi, in this video we will demonstrate how to take off the cover of your regulator if you need to inspect it or perhaps clean any sand or debris which stuck in the exhaust valve. 

Unscrew the top cover by hand, and then remove the plastic washer and the diaphragm to unveil the internal parts. Diving regulator is essentially an air valve actuated by a lever that is pressed by the diaphragm as you breathe-in. At the bottom of the regulator housing, you see the exhaust port with a large umbrella valve. If you need to clean it, remove the plastic cover held by a snap hook and pull off the umbrella valve. 

Then clean both the valve and the valve seat with a small brush in fresh water. Rinse it properly, and you are ready to re-assemble the regulator. If you’re getting any water inside your regulator during the dive, but the silicone mouthpiece has no cuts or cracks, you may want to inspect the seat of this exhaust valve to make sure it’s clean, without any sand or debris preventing it from sealing perfectly. 

If your regulator valve needs an overhaul, we have a service kit in our eShop. But such repairs should only be done by a trained professional at a dive centre. Install the umbrella valve back, pull at the pin at its back to make sure it’s secured in place, and snap the exhaust cover back. Next, we will assemble the diaphragm, the washer, the spacer, and the regulator cover. 

Insert the diaphragm and make sure that the edge sits inside the groove on the regulator housing. Then insert the plastic washer on top of the diaphragm and make sure it’s nice and flat without any wrinkles. Put in the black plastic spacer, and finally the regulator cover with the threaded bezel and screw it clockwise by hand. If the cover isn’t aligned nicely, loosen the bezel, grip the cover, and rotate slightly to adjust its orientation. Tighten the bezel again. You may need to repeat this step several times until you are satisfied with the alignment. 

Hi, in this video we will demonstrate how to replace the regulator or the regulator hose on your harness. 

What you’ll need is a 15-millimetre and a 22-millimetre spanner for the harness side, and a 17 and an 18-millimetre spanner for the regulator side. Also, a small amount of silicon O-ring grease. 

First, we suggest removing the regulator necklace if you are replacing the regulator, like so. Pull back the hose protector to uncover the hose fitting. Take the 17 and the 18-millimetre spanners and loosen the hose by turning the swivel fitting counter clockwise. Unscrew the hose from the regulator. If you are replacing the regulator, now you can attach the new one by following the instructions in reverse order. 

If you are replacing the hose, use the 22-millimetre spanner to hold the coupler in place and a 15-millimetre spanner to loosen the hose. Unscrew the coupler from the attachment. You can help yourself with the safety lock of the coupler to grip it and rotate. Keep the hose protector, and put it on the new hose, like so. 

Remove the protective cap, and lightly lubricate the O-ring with silicone O-ring grease. Insert the coupler into the vest attachment and screw-in the new hose. Tighten using the 22-millimetre and the 15-millimetre spanners. To attach a new regulator, just screw-in the hose and fasten with the 17 and 18-millimetre spanners. And finally, take the regulator necklace and stretch it over the mouthpiece. Make sure to thoroughly test the assembly before diving. 

Hi, in this video we will demonstrate how to remove and install the air coupler on your float if you need to clean it or replace for a new one. For this job, you’ll need a 22-millimetre spanner with narrow head, Loctite SI 5331 silicone thread locker and a small bottle brush. 

Loosen the coupler using the 22-millimetre spanner in counterclockwise direction and unscrew it by hand. Clean the residues of the old silicone thread locker with a brush. Insert the new gasket inside the groove and apply a little bit of Loctite silicone thread locker on the threads inside. 

Take the new air coupler, press it against the gasket by hand, while simultaneously rotating the coupler with the spanner in clockwise direction. 

This is how it should look like. 

Hi, in this video we will demonstrate how to replace the air coupler on your float if you need to clean it or replace for a new one. 

For this job, you’ll need a 22-millimetre spanner with narrow head, Loctite SI 5331 silicone thread locker and a small bottle brush. Loosen the coupler using the 22-millimetre spanner in counter clockwise direction and unscrew it by hand. Clean the residues of the old silicone thread locker with a brush. 

Apply a little bit of Loctite silicone thread locker on the threads of the coupler. Just about a half of a turn, … like so. Screw the coupler in by hand and carefully tighten with the spanner, but do not overtighten the gasket to a point that it would bulge. 

This is how it should look like. 

Hi, in this video we will demonstrate how to replace the J-hose on your float for a new one. 

You can use various 22-millimetre tubular spanners. The best one is a 22-millimetre oxygen sensor socket with a cut-out for the hose wide at least 12 millimetres. Unscrew the J-hose with a 22-millimetre socket by turning it counter clockwise. Clean the residues of the old silicone thread locker with a brush. 

Take the new J-hose and insert the O-ring into the groove on the swivel fitting. Apply a little bit of Loctite SI 5331 silicone thread locker at the end of the threads of the swivel fitting. Just about a half of a turn, like so. Screw the new J-hose in the threaded hole on your float and tighten with the 22-millimetre socket. Check for air leaks before diving as we show in a separate video. 

Hi, in this video we will demonstrate how to replace the main coupler or the pressure gauge on the compressor unit. 

What you’ll need is a 22-millimetre spanner for the coupler, a 27-millimetre spanner for the pressure gauge, a small brush and Loctite SI 5331 silicone thread locker. If you’re working on the air coupler, take the 22-millimetre spanner to loosen it (counterclockwise) and unscrew by hand. Grip the coupler using the safety lock mechanism. It makes it easier. 

If you’re working on the pressure gauge, pull off the rubber protector, loosen it with a 27-millimetre spanner and unscrew by hand. Now, what you’ll need to do is clean the residues of the old silicone thread locker with a brush. Make sure that there is no debris left inside. If you work both on the coupler and the gauge at the same time, you can use a 10mm bottle brush that you run all the way through the compressor head tube. If you have compressed air, you can use it to blow away any debris. 

Take the new coupler with a new gasket (never re-use the old one) and apply a little bit of Loctite SI 5331 silicone thread locker at the end of the threads. Just about a half of a turn, like so. And then, screw the coupler in by hand and tighten with the 22-millimetre spanner so that the gasket is compressed. 

Mounting the pressure gauge is a similar procedure. Put on a new gasket, apply little bit of the Loctite silicone thread locker at the end of the threads, screw in by hand and tighten with the 27-millimetre spanner. Put the rubber protector back on the pressure gauge and you are done. 

Hi, in this video we will demonstrate how you can lift the platform on your AirBuddy to inspect the compressor, if you for example suspect that there may have been some water intrusion. 

You can use the Torx-15 screwdriver from our toolset for this job or some other Torx-15 screwdriver available from your local hardware store. 

In this video we will use an electric tool to go a bit faster. 

Use a Torx-15 screwdriver to remove all four screws that hold the platform. One of them is hidden under the warranty label. 

Once you remove all screws, you can lift the platform by hand to unveil the internal parts and inspect the compressor. 

You can also take some pictures and share with us if you need our advice. 

When closing the platform back, make sure that you route the wires along the compressor and under the tooth on the compressor breather.   

Gently push on the black wire sideways to make sure that it doesn’t get pinched between the platform and the screw boss on the housing. 

Now, close the platform and press firmly by hand to ensure that each corner of the platform sits on top of the screw boss, hence none of the wires has been pinched. 

Fasten the screws by a hand screwdriver or if you use an electric tool, set it to the lowest torque setting and then moderately tighten by hand to prevent stripping the thread. 

Hi, in this video we will demonstrate how you can replace the platform with the electronics of your AirBuddy. 

For this job, you’ll need a Torx-15 screwdriver which is also contained in our toolset or a power tool with a long T-15 attachment, a seam ripper and hot air gun. Let’s start by removing the platform. Use the Torx-15 screwdriver to remove all four screws that hold the platform. One of them is hidden under the warranty label. Once you remove all screws, you can lift the platform by hand to expose the compressor and the wire connectors. 

What you’ll to do now is to take the seam ripper or small cuticle scissors to cut the heat-shrink tubings that cover the wire connectors, like so. And now, you can disconnect all connectors and remove the old platform. Put the old platform aside. Take the heat-shrink tubings provided with your new platform and put them on the wires. The two thinner ones go on the black and red power wires and the wider one over the red plastic connector to the siren. 

Then insert the new platform, connect all connectors, and position the heat-shrink tubings to cover the connectors – roughly in the middle. Take one sheet of copy paper and fold it twice, so that you get 4 layers. Place it along the plastic wall of the housing for heat protection when you operate the hot air gun. Turn the heat gun on and set it to about 250 degrees Celsius (or about 480 degrees Fahrenheit) and blow the hot air onto the heat-shrink tubings, like so. 

Once they shrink from one side, you can lift the platform to get a better access, and work around the wires from all sides. Make sure that the heat-shrink wrap tightly around the wires, without any gaps or wrinkles that could allow any moisture to penetrate inside. When closing the platform, make sure that you route the wires along the compressor and under the tooth on the compressor breather. 

Gently push on the black wire sideways to make sure that it doesn’t get pinched between the platform and the screw boss on the housing. Now, close the platform and press firmly by hand to ensure that each corner of the platform sits on top of the screw boss, hence none of the wires has been pinched. Fasten the screws by a hand screwdriver or if you use an electric tool, set it to the lowest torque setting and then moderately tighten by hand to prevent stripping the thread. 

Hi, in this video we will demonstrate how to remove the compressor if you need to get access to the pressure relief valve which is located underneath the compressor. 

You may want to inspect and clean the valve for example if you identified an internal air leak or suspect a previous water ingress. At minimum, you’ll need the tools contained in our toolset, which includes a foldable T-handle, Torx-15 and Torx-30 bits and a 16-millimetre, deep socket. 

In this video we will also use power tools to go a bit faster and a torque wrench to tighten the compressor screws to the recommended torque. Let’s start by loosening the two large screws that hold the compressor. Use the T-handle with Torx-30 bit and remove both screws by rotating them counterclockwise. You can also use a power tool if you want to go a bit faster. 

Then, take a Torx-15 screwdriver and remove the platform. Remove all four screws that hold the platform. One of them is hidden under the warranty label. Lay your AirBuddy on the side and slightly rotate the heatsink to make sure that it doesn’t stick to the compressor. You can use a large coin or a similar object. And now, just grab the compressor and lift it out gently. Pull out the siren and lay everything on the side, so that you don’t twist the wires. 

Now that you have access to the pressure relief valve, convert the screwdriver to a T-handle (or use a ratchet with extension), attach the 16-millimetre, deep socket, and just unscrew the pressure relief valve, which sits at the bottom of the housing. Make sure that you also remove the O-ring which may sometimes stick inside the housing. Now you can use the T-30 safety bit to push the valve poppet out and use a cotton swab to clean the seat and the O-ring inside of the valve. You can also lightly lubricate the cotton swab with silicone O-ring grease, like so. 

When re-assembling the valve, put the main O-ring back and lightly lubricate with silicone grease. Use the 16-millimetre socket to screw it back. It helps if you hold the housing upside down at the beginning to make sure that the O-ring doesn’t fall out. Screw it all the way in and fasten. Ideally, you should use a torque wrench that you set to 12 Newton-meters. 

Now, you’re ready to put the compressor back. If the compressor cylinder remained inside the housing, pull it out by fingers, and insert on the compressor piston. Start at a slight angle and slowly rotate the cylinder as you insert it to make sure that you don’t damage the piston seal. Hold the compressor, push the siren inside the housing with the white face towards the centre of AirBuddy and then insert the compressor. Make sure that it goes all the way down and sits flush with the housing. 

Insert the platform, but don’t fasten it yet. When you put the compressor screws back, clean them first and replace the O-rings with new ones. Lubricate them with silicon O-ring grease. Then apply a little bit of Loctite 243 thread locker at the end of the threads to make sure that they can’t loosen by the compressor vibrations. Don’t forget to clean the O-ring seats with a cotton swab and check there is no debris left in there. 

Insert the screws and fasten. Ideally, you would use a torque wrench that you set to 9 Newton-meters. When closing the platform, make sure that you route the wires along the compressor and under the tooth on the compressor breather. Now, close the platform and press firmly by hand to ensure that each corner of the platform sits on top of the screw boss, hence none of the wires has been pinched. 

Fasten the screws with a hand screwdriver or if you use an electric tool, set it to the lowest torque setting and then moderately tighten by hand to prevent stripping the thread. 

Hi, in this video we will demonstrate how to replace the compressor of AirBuddy, for example if your AirBuddy was involved in an accident and the compressor suffered water damage. 

At minimum, you’ll need the tools contained in our toolset, which includes a foldable T-handle, Torx-15 and Torx-30 bits and a 16-millimetre, deep socket. In this video we will also use a power tool to move a bit faster and a torque wrench to tighten the compressor screws and the pressure relief valve to the specification. 

Let’s start by removing the platform. Use the Torx-15 screwdriver to remove all four screws that hold the platform. One of them is hidden under the warranty label. Once you remove all screws, you can lift the platform by hand to expose the compressor and the wire connectors. What you’ll need to do now is to take the seam ripper or small cuticle scissors to cut the heat-shrink tubings that cover the wire connectors, … like so. 

Now, you can disconnect all connectors and remove the platform. Put it aside, and let’s move on to the compressor. Loosen the two large screws that hold the compressor. Use the T-handle with Torx-30 bit and remove both screws by turning them counterclockwise. Next, slightly rotate the heatsink to make sure that it doesn’t stick to the compressor. You can use a large coin or a similar object. Grab the compressor and gently pull it out. If the compressor cylinder remained inside the housing, use your fingers to pull it out, too. 

Now, you should inspect and clean, or replace the valve plate. The easiest way to remove it is by pushing-in the internal valve of the air coupler and blowing compressed air in the main air coupler by an air gun. The valve will pop out. If you don’t use compressed air, you can pry the valve plate out with a suitable hook tool. Remove both valve plate O-rings since you will be replacing them with new ones. 

Then remove the pressure relief valve that sits at the bottom of the housing. Attach a 16-millimetre, deep socket to the T-handle (or use a ratchet with an extension), and unscrew the valve by turning it counterclockwise. Make sure that you also remove the pressure relief valve O-ring which may sometimes stick inside the housing. If the pressure the valve can be cleaned with descaler (like shown in our other video), re-use it. Otherwise replace it with a new one. 

Also inspect the compressor head tube for any salt crystals, debris or oxidation and if required, clean it properly before you start the re-assembly. When mounting the valve, put the valve O-ring back and lightly lubricate with silicone grease. Use the 16-millimetre socket to screw it back. It helps if you hold the housing upside down at the start to make sure that the O-ring doesn’t get out of place. Screw the valve all the way in and fasten. Ideally, you should use a torque wrench that you set to 12 Newton-meters. Don’t over tighten it. 

Now take two new valve plate O-rings and install the first one inside of the compressor head. Insert the valve cap with the valve strip facing inwards. It’s easier if you do this upside down. Install the second O-ring on top of the valve cap and press it in the groove with your fingernail. At this point, you should restore the layer of heat paste on the heatsink. If the old paste is still OK, just add a little bit of fresh paste on top and spread it evenly. Or better yet, clean the old paste entirely with wet wipes and apply a new, fresh layer. 

Put on a disposable glove and spread a thin, uniform layer that is about 0.2 to 0.4 millimetre thick. Make sure to cover the entire area of the heatsink, like so. Now you are ready to install the new compressor. If the cylinder detached, insert it back onto the piston. Start at a slight angle and slowly rotate the cylinder to prevent any damage to the piston seal. Hold the compressor straight and gently insert inside. Make sure that it goes all the way down and sits flush with the housing. 

When you put the compressor screws back, clean them first and replace the O-rings with new ones. Lubricate them with silicon O-ring grease. Then apply a little bit of Loctite 243 thread locker at the end of the threads to make sure that they can’t loosen by the compressor vibrations. Don’t forget to clean the O-ring seats with a cotton swab and check there is no debris left in there. Insert the screws and fasten. Ideally, you should use a torque wrench that you set to 9 Newton-meters. 

Now you are ready to install the platform with electronics. Take the new heat-shrink tubings and put them on the wires. The two thinner ones go on the black and red power wires and the wider one over the red plastic connector to the siren. Then insert the new platform, connect all connectors, and position the heat-shrink tubings to cover the connectors – roughly in the middle. Take one sheet of copy paper and fold it twice, so that you get 4 layers. 

Place it along the plastic wall of the housing for heat protection when you operate the hot air gun.  Turn the heat gun on and set it to about 250 degrees Celsius (or about 480 degrees Fahrenheit) and blow the hot air onto the heat-shrink tubings, like so. Once they shrink from one side, you can lift the platform to get a better access, and work around the wires from all sides. Make sure that the heat-shrink wrap tightly around the wires, without any gaps or wrinkles that could allow any moisture to penetrate inside. 

When closing the platform, make sure that you route the wires along the compressor and under the tooth on the compressor breather. Gently push on the black wire sideways to make sure that it doesn’t get pinched between the platform and the screw boss on the housing. Now, close the platform and press firmly by hand to ensure that each corner of the platform sits on top of the screw boss, hence none of the wires has been pinched. Fasten the screws by a hand screwdriver or if you use an electric tool, set it to the lowest torque setting and then moderately tighten by hand to prevent stripping the thread. 

Hi, in this video we will demonstrate how you can replace the battery wires if they for example suffer a mechanical damage or severe oxidation that can no longer be polished away. 

You will need the new wire with the solder splice heat-shrink sleeve, as well as some basic tools including cable cutters, wire strippers, paper, permanent marker, and a hot air gun. 

To start, cut the damaged wire and remove it. Thread the new wire through the opening on the platform and bend it by 90 degrees. Now mark the length of the wire so that they overlap by about 10 millimetres. Cut the excess wire, and strip about 10 to 12 millimetres of insulation on both sides of the wire. Insert the solder splice heat shrink sleeve on one side of the wire. 

Fray the wire on both ends so that you create gaps between the individual strands of the wire. Put the wires together to intertwine the strands and smoothen the connection by fingers. Once you get it nice and neat, pull over the solder splice heat shrink sleeve, so that the solder ring is positioned in the middle of the intertwined wire connection. It helps if you slightly rotate the sleeve. Make sure that all the wire strands go inside the heat shrink sleeve. 

Press it all together one more time. Now take one sheet of copy paper and fold it twice, so that you get 4 layers of paper. Place it underneath the wire for heat protection of the plastic platform when you operate the hot air gun. Turn the heat gun on and set it to about 300 degrees Celsius (or about 570 degrees Fahrenheit) and blow the hot air onto the solder splice heat-shrink sleeve. 

Do this for about three or four minutes until you see that the solder has molten and penetrated between the wire strands and the sleeve is tightly wrapped around the wire along its entire length. Make sure you move the heat gun side-to-side. Don’t stay too long on one spot. Let it cool, remove the paper and you are ready for re-assembly of the platform into your AirBuddy. 

Hi, in this video we will demonstrate how to fix a loose contact on the charging connector if it somehow detached and no longer latches onto the metal spring underneath the contact. You can remove the protector and use your hand or a small screwdriver to push the wire contact all the way in until you hear a “click”, and then place the protector back onto the connector. 

Hi, in this video we will demonstrate how to fix whistling flag if it’s accidently tuned to squeal at a certain flow rate of the compressor. 

It’s very rare, but it may occasionally happen that the flag makes an annoying sound when the compressor draws the air through the flag. To fix it, remove the black cap from the top of the flag to unveil the internal anti-whistle insert from red PVC plastic. 

You can use any object of a suitable diameter, such as the screwdriver handle from our toolset, to push the red insert a little bit further down the flag post. You should get the flag out of tune. If not, repeat the process.